CLEAR BLUE · CURATED PAINT RECIPE

How to mix royal blue

A strong middle blue with a restrained violet bias for fabric, heraldry, graphics, flowers, and painted accents.

Mixora IT editorial recipeUpdated September 24, 2026Editorial starting point
Target color#3454A4
Editorial starting point

Useful first test, with the claim kept honest

This recipe uses pigment behavior and color relationships to define a controlled starting point. It is not yet a named, brand-calibrated studio test. The target is an sRGB reference; your dried paint remains the deciding evidence.

See the evidence method and downloadable record →

STARTING MIX

5 : 1 : 1 : 0.1

Use one consistent unit for every part. For the smallest fractions, scale the entire recipe up instead of estimating a partial drop.

5
Ultramarine Blueviolet-blue body
70%
1
Phthalo Blue (Green Shade)extends cyan range
14%
1
Titanium Whiteraises value and opacity
14%
0.1
Quinacridone Magentarestores regal violet bias
1%

PIGMENT LOGIC

Why this mixture works

Ultramarine supplies the recognizable violet-blue character while phthalo improves depth and saturation. White moves the mixture out of navy range, and magenta is only a final bias correction.

The displayed #3454A4 swatch is an sRGB target, not a promise that every brand will dry to the same color. Pigment identity, tint strength, opacity, medium, surface, and lighting remain part of the result.

BASIC-PALETTE ROUTE

Alternative recipe

Begin with a vivid deep blue, tint only enough to reveal its color, then balance a green bias with a trace of magenta.

Make the test useful

Apply the mixture on the same ground and at the same thickness planned for the final work. Label the wet ratio, wait for a complete dry-down, and compare in neutral light before adjusting.

CORRECTION MAP

How to adjust the result

Add ultramarine for warmer royal blue, phthalo for cooler electric blue, white for cornflower, or burnt umber for a shadow version. Keep the shadow pile separate.

Correct value first, then hue, then chroma. This order prevents a lightness error from turning into an unnecessarily complicated recipe.

WATCH FOR

Common mistakes

  • Making royal blue from blue plus black
  • Adding so much white that the mixture becomes pastel
  • Correcting with purple paint before inspecting the blue undertone

SCALE THE BATCH

Keep fractional parts measurable

Choose a scale that turns the smallest addition into a unit you can repeat. The proportions stay identical.

Ultramarine Blue1× batch: 5 parts2× batch: 10 parts5× batch: 25 parts
Phthalo Blue (Green Shade)1× batch: 1 parts2× batch: 2 parts5× batch: 5 parts
Titanium White1× batch: 1 parts2× batch: 2 parts5× batch: 5 parts
Quinacridone Magenta1× batch: 0.1 parts2× batch: 0.2 parts5× batch: 0.5 parts

MEDIUM CHECKS

Translate the ratio into your material

  • Acrylic: compare only after full dry-down and keep film thickness consistent.
  • Oil: inspect both the thick mass tone and a thin application; transparent pigments can shift strongly with thickness.
  • Watercolor: mix by repeatable brush loads or drops, record dilution, and use the intended paper.
  • Miniature paint: match the primer, thinning, wash, and final varnish used on the model.

VERIFICATION PROTOCOL

What to record with the swatch

  1. Exact brand, range, color name, and pigment code where available.
  2. One measurement unit and the full ratio before any correction.
  3. Medium, surface, ground or primer, and application thickness.
  4. Wet observation, fully dry observation, light source, and date.
  5. The largest remaining value, hue, or chroma error and one next adjustment.

Print the studio test sheet →

THREE USEFUL VARIATIONS

Extend one successful base

  • Lighter: split off a sample and raise value gradually; inspect whether white also cools or dulls it.
  • Darker: use a related chromatic dark before reaching for black, then compare the undertone.
  • Quieter: reduce chroma with a prepared near-complement in very small steps so the value does not collapse.