WARM LIGHT · CURATED PAINT RECIPE

How to mix ivory paint

A low-chroma warm white for bone, stone, fabric, paper, and subtle highlight variation.

STARTING ANSWER14 Titanium White + 0.5 Yellow Ochre + 0.1 Burnt UmberAdd white for porcelain, ochre for warmer ivory, or umber for antique bone. Compare beside pure white so the tint remains visible.Mix #E9DFC8 with my paints →
Mixora IT editorial recipeUpdated September 24, 2026Estimated starting point

STARTING MIX

14 : 0.5 : 0.1

Use one consistent unit for every part. For the smallest fractions, scale the entire recipe up instead of estimating a partial drop.

14
Titanium Whitedominant light base
96%
0.5
Yellow Ochrewarm tint
3%
0.1
Burnt Umberneutralizes and ages
1%
Editorial starting point

Useful first test, with the claim kept honest

This recipe uses pigment behavior and color relationships to define a controlled starting point. It is not yet a named, brand-calibrated studio test. The target is an sRGB reference; your dried paint remains the deciding evidence.

See the evidence method and downloadable record →

PIGMENT LOGIC

Why this mixture works

Ivory is less yellow than cream and slightly more neutral. The high white ratio controls value while the brown note removes raw brightness.

The displayed #E9DFC8 swatch is an sRGB target, not a promise that every brand will dry to the same color. Pigment identity, tint strength, opacity, medium, surface, and lighting remain part of the result.

BASIC-PALETTE ROUTE

Alternative recipe

Tint white with a tiny prepared mixture of ochre and brown. Make the tint concentrate separately for better repeatability.

Make the test useful

Apply the mixture on the same ground and at the same thickness planned for the final work. Label the wet ratio, wait for a complete dry-down, and compare in neutral light before adjusting.

CORRECTION MAP

How to adjust the result

Add white for porcelain, ochre for warmer ivory, or umber for antique bone. Compare beside pure white so the tint remains visible.

Correct value first, then hue, then chroma. This order prevents a lightness error from turning into an unnecessarily complicated recipe.

WATCH FOR

Common mistakes

  • Making ivory visibly brown
  • Adding raw dark pigment straight into the full white batch
  • Evaluating without a clean white reference

SCALE THE BATCH

Keep fractional parts measurable

Choose a scale that turns the smallest addition into a unit you can repeat. The proportions stay identical.

Titanium White1× batch: 14 parts2× batch: 28 parts5× batch: 70 parts
Yellow Ochre1× batch: 0.5 parts2× batch: 1 parts5× batch: 2.5 parts
Burnt Umber1× batch: 0.1 parts2× batch: 0.2 parts5× batch: 0.5 parts

MEDIUM CHECKS

Translate the ratio into your material

  • Acrylic: compare only after full dry-down and keep film thickness consistent.
  • Oil: inspect both the thick mass tone and a thin application; transparent pigments can shift strongly with thickness.
  • Watercolor: mix by repeatable brush loads or drops, record dilution, and use the intended paper.
  • Miniature paint: match the primer, thinning, wash, and final varnish used on the model.

VERIFICATION PROTOCOL

What to record with the swatch

  1. Exact brand, range, color name, and pigment code where available.
  2. One measurement unit and the full ratio before any correction.
  3. Medium, surface, ground or primer, and application thickness.
  4. Wet observation, fully dry observation, light source, and date.
  5. The largest remaining value, hue, or chroma error and one next adjustment.

Print the studio test sheet →

THREE USEFUL VARIATIONS

Extend one successful base

  • Lighter: split off a sample and raise value gradually; inspect whether white also cools or dulls it.
  • Darker: use a related chromatic dark before reaching for black, then compare the undertone.
  • Quieter: reduce chroma with a prepared near-complement in very small steps so the value does not collapse.